Greystoke Mahale is a castaway fantasy forged from reclaimed dhow timbers on Kangwena Beach, where the 2,462m Mahale Mountains plunge into Lake Tanganyika's depths. The camp exists for one reason: the M-Group chimpanzees. Habituated since 1965 by Japanese researchers, these 60-70 chimps allow extraordinary proximity as they groom, forage, and navigate social hierarchies. Yet Greystoke offers more—the world's second-deepest lake glitters beyond the beach, with the Congo rainforest over the horizon. This is not a lodge you visit. It is a place that changes what you expect from the wild.
Awarded: Bronze
Location
Mahale Mountains National Park occupies a mountainous peninsula on the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika in western Tanzania, roughly 130 kilometres south of Kigoma, the nearest town of any size. The park shares its waters with the Democratic Republic of Congo, visible as a hazy outline on clear evenings across the 50-kilometre width of the lake. This is the wild canvas that captivated Roland and Zoe Purcell in 1988, convincing them to create a permanent home here.
Greystoke sits directly on Kangwena Beach within the park boundaries, where tropical forest descends to meet a crescent of powder-white sand. Behind the camp, Mount Nkungwe rises to 2,462 metres, the highest of six peaks in the Mahale range. The terrain shifts dramatically from lakeshore to alpine bamboo within a few kilometres of vertical gain, a compression of habitats that explains why chimpanzees and lions both call this park home, though they occupy opposite sides of the mountain spine.
The remoteness is absolute and deliberate: no roads for 60 kilometres in any direction, no vehicles within the 1,613 square kilometre park. The nearest road ends at Kigoma, and the only access is by water. After flying into Mahale airstrip, a traditional wooden dhow carries you 90 minutes down the coastline to camp. Operated by Nomad Tanzania, a pioneering safari company with over 30 years in Tanzania’s wildest corners.
Rooms
When Roland Purcell built the original camp in 1989, he understood that architecture here should surrender completely to the wild. The bandas emerge from the forest edge almost invisibly, constructed from timbers salvaged from retired dhows that once plied these waters, old fishing canoes became ladders, palm thatch gathered outside the park forms the roofs. Borrowing its name from Tarzan’s ancestral title, Lord Greystoke, the aesthetic is Robinson Crusoe refined, where materials tell stories of their former lives at sea and the luxury lies not in marble but in immersion: no glass windows, no air conditioning, just elemental connection to lake breezes and forest sounds.
Standard Bandas: Each two-storey structure opens completely to the lake view, with heavy canvas drapes that can close against rare storms. Ground-floor sleeping areas hold double or twin beds beneath essential mosquito nets, with dressing areas leading via boardwalks to semi-open bathrooms featuring hot-water showers (heated on request via kerosene boilers, requiring advance notice), flush toilets, and forest views through the foliage. The open-sided construction means excellent ventilation but occasional insect visitors. Upstairs, a chill-out deck furnished with day beds and cushions offers a private retreat for afternoon reading or watching storms build over the Congo. Most bandas have winding paths to private beach bandas—simple shaded platforms for lakeside lounging. These rooms suit couples and solo travellers seeking full immersion. Power for charging devices and Wi-Fi are available, though bandwidth is limited to essential communication only, not streaming or video calls.
Family Bandas (with mezzanine): Three bandas offer mezzanine levels that accommodate a third bed, making them suitable for families with older children or close-travelling friends. The larger dressing rooms in these units provide additional space, and they share all the same practical features as standard bandas: on-request hot water, open-air design with mosquito nets, and limited Wi-Fi connectivity.
Hillside Banda: One banda sits higher on the slope, trading direct beach access for elevated views across the forest canopy toward both lake and mountains. The perspective here differs markedly, you look down into the treetops rather than out from among them—and some guests prefer this vantage point for its sense of overview and complete privacy. This elevated position enjoys the same amenities as all bandas, including power and limited Wi-Fi, though the open-air experience and need for insect protection remain identical.
Communal Areas
The main mess building stands alone on the beach, the only structure between forest edge and waterline. Two storeys of thatch and salvaged timber house the communal heart of camp: ground-floor dining around a long campaign table where all guests eat together, sharing the day’s chimp encounters over meals that belie the remote location; curries with homemade naan, whole fish wrapped in banana leaves, soup served in hollowed pumpkins. The view from every seat showcases Lake Tanganyika’s crystalline water and, on clear evenings, the Congo rainforest on the distant horizon. During rainy periods, meals move indoors to this dining area; in drier months, they frequently alternate to tables set on sand beneath torches and stars.
Upstairs, a library and lounging area occupies the peak of the thatch, furnished with beanbags and board games, offering wide views across the lake. A small but well-curated shop sells local crafts and Nomad branded items, with proceeds supporting community projects.
The Sunset Bar perches on rocks at the beach’s northern headland, stepped decks leading down to the water’s edge. This is where each evening begins, drinks served as the light softens over the mountains, guests comparing trek routes and chimp sightings while the staff prepare for dinner service. On special occasions, dinner moves to the camp’s 50-foot mahogany dhow, drifting on the lake with freshly caught fish served sashimi-style.
Activities
The defining experience begins each morning after breakfast, once trackers radio the M-Group’s location. These 60-70 individuals have been habituated by Japanese researchers since 1965, allowing extraordinary proximity. Walks range from 20 minutes (when chimps are in the forest immediately behind camp) to 5-7 hours of strenuous climbing (when they have climbed high onto the mountain slopes). Trek difficulty varies dramatically by season: June-August typically requires the most challenging ascents; November-March offers generally easier access; April-May brings slippery trails and occasional camp closure. The terrain varies from flat forest trails to steep, muddy scrambles requiring reasonable fitness.
Upon locating the chimps, you spend one hour observing at close range, typically within metres, as they groom, play, forage, and navigate their intricate social dynamics. Breathing masks are provided and required, protecting the chimps from human respiratory diseases. Groups are limited to six guests plus guides and rangers. While most guests see chimps at least once during a 3-4 day stay, sightings are never guaranteed, the M-Group covers 15 square miles and may be anywhere within it. The experience is profound: these are clearly intelligent beings, aware of your presence yet utterly indifferent to it.
Forest Walks: Beyond chimp trekking, guided walks explore the forest for other wildlife: nine primate species share these slopes, including red colobus, blue monkeys, red-tailed monkeys, and yellow baboons. Bushbuck, bushpig, and an extraordinary diversity of butterflies and birds reward those who walk with attention.
Lake Activities: Kayaks are available for independent exploration along the shoreline, paddling past the fishing village of Katumbi and into quiet coves. Swimming happens from the dhow in deep water offshore—the shore itself is occasionally visited by crocodiles and hippos. Snorkelling reveals the lake’s 250 endemic cichlid fish, flashing through water so clear you can count them while swimming.
Dhow Cruises: Afternoon and sunset sails on the traditional wooden dhow provide perspective on the mountains from the water, opportunities for deep-water swimming, and the possibility of spotting hippos along the shoreline.
Fishing (catch and release only): Hand-line fishing for various tilapia species from the dhow. Conservation rules require all fish be released.
Village Visits: Visits to Katumbi village, approximately 90 minutes by boat, offer insight into local life and the community projects supported by Nomad Trust, including the primary school and medical outreach programmes.
Fully inclusive
When to go
Find out when is best to visit
- Excellent
- Good
- Poor
WET SEASON
Weather conditions at this time can be unpredictable, with intermittent heavy showers or thunderstorms. Fortunately, these usually occur in the afternoon and are short-lived. Travellers may find that the heat combined with humidity can make be a little uncomfortable, especially around midday.
Chimpanzee trekking can be difficult during this period due to this unpredictable weather, however the park is at its most picturesque at this time. Expect to see waterfalls in full flow and beautiful butterflies on display; plus, the high visibility allows for some superb views.
Its proximity to the equator means that Mahale National Park has fairly consistent temperatures throughout the year. The altitude (825-1,618m/2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these temperatures somewhat, however the park is still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C/81°F at midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C/64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The long rains take place between March and May, while the milder short rains take place between November and December.
Mahale is most famous for its resident chimpanzees. It is possible to track chimpanzees here throughout the year, however it is worth bearing in mind the animals’ seasonal movements. During the dry season they tend to move to the lower slopes, where the ground is firm and the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse happens, with the chimpanzees moving to the higher, less accessible regions of the park, where the trails are often muddy and slippery.
WET SEASON
Weather conditions at this time can be unpredictable, with intermittent heavy showers or thunderstorms. Fortunately, these usually occur in the afternoon and are short-lived. Travellers may find that the heat combined with humidity can make be a little uncomfortable, especially around midday.
Chimpanzee trekking can be difficult during this period due to this unpredictable weather, however the park is at its most picturesque at this time. Expect to see waterfalls in full flow and beautiful butterflies on display; plus, the high visibility allows for some superb views.
Its proximity to the equator means that Mahale National Park has fairly consistent temperatures throughout the year. The altitude (825-1,618m/2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these temperatures somewhat, however the park is still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C/81°F at midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C/64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The long rains take place between March and May, while the milder short rains take place between November and December.
Mahale is most famous for its resident chimpanzees. It is possible to track chimpanzees here throughout the year, however it is worth bearing in mind the animals’ seasonal movements. During the dry season they tend to move to the lower slopes, where the ground is firm and the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse happens, with the chimpanzees moving to the higher, less accessible regions of the park, where the trails are often muddy and slippery.
WET SEASON
Weather conditions at this time can be unpredictable, with intermittent heavy showers or thunderstorms. Fortunately, these usually occur in the afternoon and are short-lived. Travellers may find that the heat combined with humidity can make be a little uncomfortable, especially around midday.
Chimpanzee trekking can be difficult during this period due to this unpredictable weather, however the park is at its most picturesque at this time. Expect to see waterfalls in full flow and beautiful butterflies on display; plus, the high visibility allows for some superb views.
Its proximity to the equator means that Mahale National Park has fairly consistent temperatures throughout the year. The altitude (825-1,618m/2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these temperatures somewhat, however the park is still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C/81°F at midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C/64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The long rains take place between March and May, while the milder short rains take place between November and December.
Mahale is most famous for its resident chimpanzees. It is possible to track chimpanzees here throughout the year, however it is worth bearing in mind the animals’ seasonal movements. During the dry season they tend to move to the lower slopes, where the ground is firm and the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse happens, with the chimpanzees moving to the higher, less accessible regions of the park, where the trails are often muddy and slippery.
WET SEASON
Weather conditions at this time can be unpredictable, with intermittent heavy showers or thunderstorms. Fortunately, these usually occur in the afternoon and are short-lived. Travellers may find that the heat combined with humidity can make be a little uncomfortable, especially around midday.
Chimpanzee trekking can be difficult during this period due to this unpredictable weather, however the park is at its most picturesque at this time. Expect to see waterfalls in full flow and beautiful butterflies on display; plus, the high visibility allows for some superb views.
Its proximity to the equator means that Mahale National Park has fairly consistent temperatures throughout the year. The altitude (825-1,618m/2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these temperatures somewhat, however the park is still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C/81°F at midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C/64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The long rains take place between March and May, while the milder short rains take place between November and December.
Mahale is most famous for its resident chimpanzees. It is possible to track chimpanzees here throughout the year, however it is worth bearing in mind the animals’ seasonal movements. During the dry season they tend to move to the lower slopes, where the ground is firm and the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse happens, with the chimpanzees moving to the higher, less accessible regions of the park, where the trails are often muddy and slippery.
WET SEASON
Weather conditions at this time can be unpredictable, with intermittent heavy showers or thunderstorms. Fortunately, these usually occur in the afternoon and are short-lived. Travellers may find that the heat combined with humidity can make be a little uncomfortable, especially around midday.
Chimpanzee trekking can be difficult during this period due to this unpredictable weather, however the park is at its most picturesque at this time. Expect to see waterfalls in full flow and beautiful butterflies on display; plus, the high visibility allows for some superb views.
Its proximity to the equator means that Mahale National Park has fairly consistent temperatures throughout the year. The altitude (825-1,618m/2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these temperatures somewhat, however the park is still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C/81°F at midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C/64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The long rains take place between March and May, while the milder short rains take place between November and December.
Mahale is most famous for its resident chimpanzees. It is possible to track chimpanzees here throughout the year, however it is worth bearing in mind the animals’ seasonal movements. During the dry season they tend to move to the lower slopes, where the ground is firm and the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse happens, with the chimpanzees moving to the higher, less accessible regions of the park, where the trails are often muddy and slippery.
TRANSITION FROM WET TO DRY SEASON
This is a rather unpredictable time of the year, with frequent heavy showers or thunderstorms. Fortunately these are usually short-lived. The heat combined with humidity can, however, make things a little uncomfortable, especially around midday. May generally marks the end of the rains, and as time moves on the showers will become milder and less frequent.
Its proximity to the equator means that Mahale National Park has fairly consistent temperatures throughout the year. The altitude (825-1,618m/2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these temperatures somewhat, however the park is still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C/81°F at midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C/64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The long rains take place between March and May, while the milder short rains take place between November and December.
Mahale is most famous for its resident chimpanzees. It is possible to track chimpanzees here throughout the year, however it is worth bearing in mind the animals’ seasonal movements. During the dry season they tend to move to the lower slopes, where the ground is firm and the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse happens, with the chimpanzees moving to the higher, less accessible regions of the park, where the trails are often muddy and slippery.
DRY SEASON
A more stable and predictable time of the year, usually with clear skies. Chimpanzees can usually be found on the lower, more accessible slopes of the park. We consider this the ideal time to visit.
Its location so close to the equator means that Mahale National Park generally has consistent temperatures throughout the year, the altitude (825-1,618m or 2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these somewhat, but temperatures are still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C or 81°F during midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C or 64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The first known as the long rains take place between March and May, the second wet season is known as the short rains which also tend to be a little less intense, these take place between November and December.
Mahlae is most famous for it habituated chimpanzees, it is possible to track them throughout the year, so on this basis we the park is good all year round. It is, however, worth bearing in mind that the during the drier months of the year the Chimpanzees tend to move to the lower slopes, the ground is also firm, and usually, the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse tends to be the case, with the chimpanzees in the more inaccessible higher regions of the park and the trails are often muddy and slippery.
DRY SEASON
A more stable and predictable time of the year, usually with clear skies. Chimpanzees can also usually be found on the lower more accessible slopes of the park. All in all the ideal time to visit.
Its location so close to the equator means that Mahale National Park generally has consistent temperatures throughout the year, the altitude (825-1,618m or 2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these somewhat, but temperatures are still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C or 81°F during midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C or 64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The first known as the long rains take place between March and May, the second wet season is known as the short rains which also tend to be a little less intense, these take place between November and December.
Mahlae is most famous for it habituated chimpanzees, it is possible to track them throughout the year, so on this basis we the park is good all year round. It is, however, worth bearing in mind that the during the drier months of the year the Chimpanzees tend to move to the lower slopes, the ground is also firm, and usually, the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse tends to be the case, with the chimpanzees in the more inaccessible higher regions of the park and the trails are often muddy and slippery.
DRY SEASON
A more stable and predictable time of the year, usually with clear skies. Chimpanzees can also usually be found on the lower more accessible slopes of the park. All in all the ideal time to visit.
Its location so close to the equator means that Mahale National Park generally has consistent temperatures throughout the year, the altitude (825-1,618m or 2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these somewhat, but temperatures are still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C or 81°F during midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C or 64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The first known as the long rains take place between March and May, the second wet season is known as the short rains which also tend to be a little less intense, these take place between November and December.
Mahlae is most famous for it habituated chimpanzees, it is possible to track them throughout the year, so on this basis we the park is good all year round. It is, however, worth bearing in mind that the during the drier months of the year the Chimpanzees tend to move to the lower slopes, the ground is also firm, and usually, the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse tends to be the case, with the chimpanzees in the more inaccessible higher regions of the park and the trails are often muddy and slippery.
DRY SEASON
A more stable and predictable time of the year, usually with clear skies. Chimpanzees can also usually be found on the lower more accessible slopes of the park. All in all the ideal time to visit.
Its location so close to the equator means that Mahale National Park generally has consistent temperatures throughout the year, the altitude (825-1,618m or 2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these somewhat, but temperatures are still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C or 81°F during midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C or 64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The first known as the long rains take place between March and May, the second wet season is known as the short rains which also tend to be a little less intense, these take place between November and December.
Mahlae is most famous for it habituated chimpanzees, it is possible to track them throughout the year, so on this basis we the park is good all year round. It is, however, worth bearing in mind that the during the drier months of the year the Chimpanzees tend to move to the lower slopes, the ground is also firm, and usually, the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse tends to be the case, with the chimpanzees in the more inaccessible higher regions of the park and the trails are often muddy and slippery.
WET SEASON
This is a rather unpredictable time of the year, with frequent heavy showers or thunderstorms. Fortunately these are usually short-lived. The heat combined with humidity can, however, make things a little uncomfortable, especially around midday. Chimpanzee trekking can be difficult during this period due to this unpredictable weather, however the park is at its most picturesque at this time. Expect to see waterfalls in full flow and beautiful butterflies on display; plus, the high visibility allows for some superb views.
Its location so close to the equator means that Mahale National Park generally has consistent temperatures throughout the year, the altitude (825-1,618m or 2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these somewhat, but temperatures are still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C or 81°F during midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C or 64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The first known as the long rains take place between March and May, the second wet season is known as the short rains which also tend to be a little less intense, these take place between November and December.
Mahlae is most famous for it habituated chimpanzees, it is possible to track them throughout the year, so on this basis we the park is good all year round. It is, however, worth bearing in mind that the during the drier months of the year the Chimpanzees tend to move to the lower slopes, the ground is also firm, and usually, the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse tends to be the case, with the chimpanzees in the more inaccessible higher regions of the park and the trails are often muddy and slippery.
WET SEASON
This is a rather unpredictable time of the year, with frequent heavy showers or thunderstorms. Fortunately these are usually short-lived. The heat combined with humidity can, however, make things a little uncomfortable, especially around midday. Chimpanzee trekking can be difficult during this period due to this unpredictable weather, however the park is at its most picturesque at this time. Expect to see waterfalls in full flow and beautiful butterflies on display; plus, the high visibility allows for some superb views.
Its location so close to the equator means that Mahale National Park generally has consistent temperatures throughout the year, the altitude (825-1,618m or 2,707-5,308ft) does moderate these somewhat, but temperatures are still hot throughout the year, usually averaging around 27°C or 81°F during midday. Mornings are a more pleasant 18°C or 64°F on average.
There are two wet seasons in Tanzania. The first known as the long rains take place between March and May, the second wet season is known as the short rains which also tend to be a little less intense, these take place between November and December.
Mahlae is most famous for it habituated chimpanzees, it is possible to track them throughout the year, so on this basis we the park is good all year round. It is, however, worth bearing in mind that the during the drier months of the year the Chimpanzees tend to move to the lower slopes, the ground is also firm, and usually, the trails are easier to negotiate. In the wetter months of the year, the reverse tends to be the case, with the chimpanzees in the more inaccessible higher regions of the park and the trails are often muddy and slippery.
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