"Madagascar’s centrally located capital city has been the island’s political hub since it was captured by the emergent Imerina monarchy in the early 17th century. Central Haut-Ville and the hills surrounding the capital are capped by several palaces and other venerable buildings dating to the pre-colonial era, while the city centre itself has a more contemporary French-Malagasy architectural feel and culinary culture. ”

- Philip Briggs

Antananarivo and surrounds

The main air gateway to Madagascar and domestic transport hub, Antananarivo straddles a series of wooded ridges and marshy valley in the country’s temperate central highlands. The city’s historical heart is Haut-Ville, a ridge-top suburb distinguished by its steep and winding cobbled alleys, expansive views over the city centre, and cluster of impressive 19th-century edifices including the three-storey Manjakamiadana Palace and baroque Andafiavaratra Museum.

The most important of 12 sacred hills associated with the monarchs of Imerina, the out-of-town Rova Ambohimanga, inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, incorporates two handsome palaces entered via traditional vavahady gates (which comprise a circular stone disc door that could be rolled into place when the city was under siege). Also worth a visit, the 16th century Rova Ambohidrabiby is probably the oldest capital of Imerina, while the two-storey wooden palace at Rova Ilafy is now an excellent ethnographic museum.

The pick of several low-key sanctuaries dotted around the capital, Lemurs’ Park supports free-ranging populations of seven introduced diurnal lemur species. Of greater interest to birders, Tsarasaotra Park is a good place to look for endemic waterbirds such as Meller’s duck and Madagascar grebe.

When to go

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