Hwange National Park

Hwange National Park

Hwange National Park is Zimbabwe’s largest, at 14,500 square kilometres, and has both its greatest variety and greatest numbers of wildlife, with the huge dry season herds of elephant and buffalo – which wander across the Botswana border – being among Africa’s top wildlife spectacles. Other large mammals include plentiful giraffe and zebra and an exceptional variety of antelope, including more unusual species such as tsessebe, eland, roan and sable. Predators are also well represented, and I have consistently been lucky with both wild dog and leopard, although sightings can never be taken for granted and finding lions, though they are reasonably numerous, can take time. Other highlights include superb birdlife, notably raptors and a sprinkling of such Kalahari specials as pied babblers and Dickinson’s kestrels.

Wildlife watching varies both by habitat and time of year. In the dry season, large herds congregate at the few water sources and game-viewing is straightforward. During the rains, visibility can be poor and game numbers low, especially in the woodlands of the east (teak) and north (mopane). The northern areas hold some of the park’s most stirring scenery, with impressive views across the mopane woodland from several high granite plateaus. I have in the past enjoyed superb game-viewing up here, including exciting nights camping in fenced picnic spots by the area’s two large dams. My more recent experience, however, suggests that the south is today more productive. Indeed, most private operators concentrate on exploring the open areas that extend south of Main Camp, particularly along the chain of pans towards Ngweshla, an area known for its cheetah and its large elephant-hunting lion prides.

Hwange’s public facilities, including rest camps, roads and picnic sites, traditionally offered a budget, self-drive safari similar to that of South Africa’s Kruger Park. But today many visitors now choose private camps, most of which are located towards the south and east of the park, and on its neighbouring concessions. Guided safaris here promise excellent guided game viewing year-round, with walking safaris, night drives and other activities. With luck, Zimbabwe’s recent changes will fuel increased interest and investment in both tourism and conservation, and Hwange will be able once again to take its place among the handful of Africa’s very top national parks.